Hi buddy, I want to buy a mini-fridge for myself because my old fridge is making a noise and going to overheat rapidly. So suggest to me a good thing that is available at reasonable price.Well you know how to get in touch. By the time I get around to it, you should have enough saved up - but you'll probably need a new stove to go with that new fridge.
Micron no longer frequents this forum, unfortunately...Hi buddy, I want to buy a mini-fridge for myself because my old fridge is making a noise and going to overheat rapidly. So suggest to me a good thing that is available at reasonable price.
I still get emails for threads that I haven't unsubscribed from. Still have your email addy too (I think).Micron no longer frequents this forum, unfortunately...
Agreed.Anyway, that looks like spam to me.
I still get emails for threads that I haven't unsubscribed from. Still have your email addy too (I think).
Anyway, that looks like spam to me. Really? Google has millions of reviews on appliances.
Drop me a line sometime - I'd like to know how the uke is holding up.
Thanks. Nice to feel missed. Doesn't happen very often.There are not many times when I am thrilled to be wrong - this is one of them!
Those grains look immaculate.This will likely be the last set of pics or updates for about 3 or 4 weeks. I have 7 coats of clear finish on it now and tomorrow I'll be sanding out any dust marks and such with 600 grit. After that I have to wait at least 2 weeks before I can sand out to 2000 then 4000 and then polish. I hope to end up with a finish as glassy and smooth as if I had used nitro cellulose lacquer (hope I spelled that correctly) which is something you have to have a business license of some sort to use. To get that, you'd need a spray booth setup with positive ventilation - or so I'm told.
You can see all sorts of reflections in these next photos - some make the finish actually look milky or deficient in some way but it's only light reflections. What's not coming across is the true chocolate colour of the wood - it's actually nicer than it photographs!
In this side view of the upper bout you can see a reflection of the wooden support that is bolted into the neck mounting cavity! Pic on the right is the bottom with the rosewood end graft.
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What also appears to be not true colour (at least on my laptop) is the neck. It is more orange-brown that what you see here and it goes with the body colour better than you might think by looking at these. This time around I decided to apply the finish with only pilot holes where the tuners go, which is why you only see small holes there at present. This was to stop clear finish from running through full sized holes and creating any drips or runs on the down side during drying. I just need to be careful when drilling these out so as to not mar the finish on either side.
Middle pic is the headstock with a black layer then maple (the white part) and then the veneer on top (on the right). The veneer is left over side or back material (left pic).
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IN either case it's really cool.Can you put a rule next to it for scale? What style will this be Spanish, folk? Is this for Moke?
amazing workI think the only thing keeping me sane during lock down is my Little Shop of Horrors. While I wait for more warm weather to spray #1, I have #2 on the go, but I will run out of things to do very soon if I can't shop for materials. I'll just post highlights rather than document a build like I did for Nautical Gent, and will include a few concepts that didn't apply in that build...
This is a back brace sitting on a radius sanding dish (15 ft radius). The braces are placed in the approximate location that they would be if this was a back and they are sanded until they conform to the arc of that location. Each brace takes on a different arch because the dish arc is not the same near the perimeter as it is in the center. When glued on in a companion radius dish (in the go-bar deck) the back takes on the shape of the arcs.
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Note the back plate sitting on the glue-up radius dish, showing the gap. Top and bottom touch the dish but the rest of it, not so much.
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Same story for the top, but a 25 ft radius. Some builders do 40 ft but I don't see the point in that.
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If you saw the Uke thread, you saw in top and back glue up before. The uke back was not arched (too small).
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One needs lots of clamps to glue up kerfing on 2 sides at once!
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Headstock plate & rough carved heel.
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